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Welcome to Botswana, Spirits, and Moremi Gorge

Yesterday we three guests spent a fair amount of time in cultural exchange, exploring how things work in our respective countries on things like getting a travel visa, divorce, estate planning, healthcare, holiday traditions, retirement, how a country comes to have the vibe it does, etc. I’m always impressed at how much other travelers know about the US, it’s politics, systems, culture, etc….generally more than many Americans themselves. It’s enlightening and humbling.

After a chorus of exotic animal calls in the dark of night and a solid rain-induced sleep, we packed up and headed to see some ancient rock paintings “nearby”. As we approached the massive cliffs, I felt a strong and certain pressure on my chest and asked our guide if he knew the spirits here? He said he didn’t know if there were spirits and asked me if I felt them. Yes indeed and they don’t want us to proceed. I was being stopped in my tracks as certain as I was breathing. The guide and our tour leader, both African men with strong beliefs in the power of ancestors and spirits were terrified. Oops … perhaps I’ll keep those thoughts and feelings to myself next time. We talked about spirit energy and other spirits in my life, then the energy shifted and we were free to proceed. Perhaps the spirits needed acknowledgment? The paintings were awe-inspiring. A giraffe, zebra, human family, hunter, rhino spelled out. Check out the photos. Tell me in the comments about your own experience with spirits.

From there we headed to Botswana. Border crossing was uneventful (they still take Covid very seriously and have special precautions for foot and mouth disease to the point where you must exit the vehicle and wipe your shoes on a chemically-treated mat). After stopping to exchange dollars for pula, we jostled our way to Moremi Gorge, near Palapye, just in time for a final private tour before closing. Not only a tourist attraction for hiking the gorge, but a game reserve, lovely permanent tented lodging with views of surrounding mountains, a restaurant, and pool. Our guide took us through a stunning gorge and shared the stories of guidance from ancestors. I felt them too but it was a completely different energy from this morning. The highlights were three waterfalls, the largest with vultures nesting in the towering cliffs above; spirit energy; and sighting some zebras and a dung beetle doing its thing. They also have wildebeest, boks, giraffes, and more.

This level of comfort (and electricity for recharging our technology) feels lovely after camping all week, though we’ve been incredibly lucky with weather and otherwise have everything we need so I have no complaints. At all. Everything is perfect. I am content and thrilled beyond words to be on this continent.

Expressions:

Eeet is goot, yes? Yehbo! (Yes)

Alumay – used by our crew when addressing one another, especially a man older than you; meaning “uncle”

Love,

Wen

Have you been to Botswana? What did you love best?

You’ve heard of the Big 5. The dung beetle is one of the mini 5. We had two working together: one breaks apart dung, the other rolls it into a hole in the sand for storage. They deposit eggs into the center for incubation. The beetles’ hind feet are on backwards because they roll the dung by going backwards. While not the sexiest topic, these beetles are incredibly important to the ecosystem
Just another donkey cart galloping to town
Beautiful bird nests

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8 Comments

    1. I’m thrilled to have you along on the journey. I hadn’t realized it until reading your comment but you’re right- I am incredibly relaxed. Hard not to be when spending 18 hours a day with 3 Africans and 2 Aussies who are all so Tranquiiiiillo. Hakuna matata! Love you ?